A Great Rosé for the Winter

My white Wine of the Week, as I sometimes do here, is a rosé, because this is the time of year that far too many people insist on not drinking these versatile and wallet-friendly bottles, despite the fact that they absolutely should. I’ve never understood this wintertime aversion to great pink wine. It’s snowy in my hometown of Philadelphia today, and another winter-weather system is on the way…so I strongly believe it’s perfect outside for rosé. Opening a bottle will put me in mind of summer, of warmer months and longer days, which is exactly what I need right now.

The Mirabeau “Étoile” 2017, however, is no standard rosé. Indeed, while most rosé should be opened up as early as possible, this one has actually benefited from several months’ repose in my cellar, the fruit starting to morph into something altogether more savory.

“… So don’t let the pale pink color fool you: This is no drink-it-and-forget-it poolside gulper. Rather, it’s a serious rosé whose red cherry and cranberry aromas are undercut by hints of leather and dried oregano, turning to a savory palate where flavors of cantaloupe and kumquat are complicated by delicious notes of tobacco, spice, and a slightly briny edge with assertive acidity and concentration that make this very versatile at the table. I could drink this all winter long.Brian Freedman shares his review of Etoile in his Wine of the Week column on Forbes.

Maison Mirabeau “Étoile” Rosé 2017 Côtes de Provence

Aromas of red cherry and cranberry and undercut by hints of leather and dried oregano. The palate is remarkably savory, with cantaloupe, kumquat, cherry, and cranberry, and a briny edge to the tobacco and spice. It’s all carried on a concentrated texture with mouthwatering acidity. Don’t let the arrival of winter stop your rosé drinking! SRP: $30